![]() It's not the end of the world but you'll have to gently repaint over it. You do have to be careful not to paint over the same surface a lot as the paster can start to come loose - and you will see bare spots where this can happen. So when using a more dilute latex in concert with a wetted plaster of paris surface, I was able to paint the latex on much better without it bubbling up or ending up with a rubbery skin of latex that just peels off. When I got to the step to put a layer of latex on the plaster, again, I needed more moisture because the plaster of paris, after drying, is again a big moisture sink, sucking the moisture out of the latex paint.ġ) I added some water to the latex so it was a bit runnier than straight out of the can from Home Depot, andĢ), I sprayed water on the dry plaster of paris surface and wetted it well before painting on the latex base color paint. So what I did was first wet the plaster cloth with a spray bottle and then I used a soupier mixture of plaster. The activa plaster cloth, once dry, is like a moisture trap sucking moister out of the plaster I was putting down. However, where I did have issues was when I put a layer of plaster of paris over the dry plaster cloth - well, that part went semi ok but the Activa plaster cloth was dry and sucked the moisture right out of the plaster making it difficult to apply. I laid Activa plaster cloth over carboard strips (old school) and that part worked totally fine for me. It sounds like you solved the plaster cloth on foam part. It is a great hobby for my son and I to spend some time doing. So we will see how it works.Īgain thanks for the welcome. I did a little test patch of foam with laytex paint that I had sitting around the house. Maybe I don't need it as flat? But from what most say, it needs to be flat. So hence why I am using hydrocal to flatten the areas where the seams as such are. Since I am new at this, I have read that you want your trackbed to be as flat as possible. So maybe some kind of sealant to it would be great before the hydrocal. Usually I notice the bubbles about 40 min after they hydrocal was applied. As it was stated, I believe it is heating up (while drying) and causing it to lift. The only issue now is when I add the hydrocal afterwards (it bubbles in areas). Let me try and see if I can be more detailed now as I have read the responses.Īs long as I have scuffed up the foam the plastercloth will stick fine. My question is: What am I doing wrong? Any tips to help correct this issue?Īny help would greatly be appreciated. It seems that everytime I introduce moisture into the plastercloth I release the bond to the foam and get bubbles. And that is the layout style I am trying to go for. I have read several people having a great layout with plaster cloth over foam. Well lets just start the bubbling off of the foam all over again. So I moved on to covering the plastercloth with hydrocal. This time running some sandpaper over the foam to rough it up and tried again. Within a hour I had bubbles from the plaster cloth lifting from the foam. ![]() ![]() Glued foam to my base and then went over it with plaster cloth (I am using Woodland Scenics and also Activa Rigid Wrap. I have my base with blue foam (bought from local hardware store). I have been following advice that I have read from researching. First to start off, I am completely new to model railroading.
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